by Marcela Torres
It was January 2000 and my dad and I were
sitting on top of a rocky promontory in Torres del Paine National Park, in
southern Chile, withstanding the strong cold Patagonian winds that pierced
through our parkas, gloves and hats. But we were on a mission: To photograph
the elusive Andean Condor.
We were fortunate enough to stay at a park
ranger post, where the staff gave us tips on the best spots to find the Condor.
Since this is a scavenger bird, they suggested we take with us some really
stinky cat food that would surely do the trick of attracting it to us.
Following their instructions, we trekked for
hours through the tall grasslands of the “pampa” to reach one of the hills they
had recommended. It was a rocky mount, completely barren, but after climbing it
we discovered it provided a great lookout point. There we sat, with our stock
of smelly cat food, and waited, and waited, and waited…
As we waited, I
remembered how we came to be there on the first place. In 1982, the BBC
produced one of my dad’s favorite documentaries, “The Flight of the Condor”.
Mind you, he got a copy and played it over and over again. Being just a girl, I
was more into cartoons and Michael Jackson videos, but I ended up liking this
incredible film about a bird that is a national symbol in most Andean
countries, including Chile, where we lived.
In fact, it wasn’t the
first time I had enjoyed a national park with him. My dad had been Regional
Director for CONAF, the agency in charge of Chilean protected areas, in Arica
between 1974 and 1985. As a child, I traveled with him many times to Lauca
National Park, in the high Andes, during his field visits. He taught me about
the Vicuña, the Flamingos, the Vizcacha, and the Condor.
It was so much fun
that I never paid attention to the cold and loved accompanying him while he
photographed nature, which was his passion. When I turned nine, he gave me my
first camera, a Polaroid that I still have, and taught me how use it. I was so
happy that I took pictures of everything!!
Thanks to him, my
family and I enjoyed living in Ann Arbor, Michigan; San José, Costa Rica; New
Haven, Connecticut; and Arlington, Virginia. This gave us some unforgettable
experiences, such as camping around the Great Lakes and visiting all of the
beautiful national parks in these areas.
Torres del Paine had
always been on my wish list. So, when he offered to take me in 2000, I said yes
immediately! And there we were, waiting for the condor…
A couple of hours had gone by and we had almost
lost all hope when suddenly, out of nowhere, a huge bird appeared flying
straight towards us. It was a Condor! We quickly ditched our gloves and grabbed
our cameras, getting ready to take great shots of this amazing animal. But in only
a few seconds it was right on top of us!
As it came, and we realized how low it was
flying, we instinctively leaned back until we lay flat on the rock. It was such an awesome sight, having this
massive bird glide only a meter above us, that we completely froze. We could
see all the details of its belly and the long wings. When we snapped out of our
awe, we realized we had not taken any pictures! So, we quickly rolled over on
our bellies and started shooting with our cameras to try to catch at least a glimpse
of the Condor. It was too late! We were only able to capture a tiny speck that
was quickly flying away from us towards higher altitudes.
We stayed there a while, letting the experience
sink in. It had been so amazing! Finally, we grabbed our cameras and the stinky
cat food and walked back to the park ranger post. At night, while we sat with
the rangers around a fire sharing a “mate” (muh-teh) –a typical Patagonia
herbal tea-, they laughed at our adventure.
Our common love for nature led us to co-author two editions of the Guide to Chile’s National Parks (1999and 2004), in Spanish, and to work together in the development of the firstsustainable visitor center in a protected area in Chile, in Los FlamencosNational Reserve, between 2005 and 2006. That experience made me decide to
study my Master in Ecotourism at James Cook University, in Cairns, Australia,
in 2009.
My dad always supported my endeavors and often
contributed with photographs for my blog. He was a member of several professional
associations and chaired for many years the IUCN South American Camelid
Specialist Group, promoting the conservation of the vicuña until the end of his
life. I will continue contributing as well, honoring his memory.
He passed away on Saturday, February 18, 2017.
It is still so recent that it’s hard to believe… I still feel him close… He
will be with me forever… And my love and gratitude for all that he taught me
will remain…
HERNÁN TORRES BIO
He will be missed. What a lovely memory shared here.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Chris!
DeleteMarcela, it seems like it was only a few years ago that Annabelle & I met you and the rest of the family in Sabanilla de Montes de Oca, San Jose . Although I had worked in Costa Rica previously, La Amistad was my first protected areas project, and working with your dad was a real pleasure. I've got no doubts that he is very proud of the work you are doing.
ReplyDeletePlease express our regrets to your mother.
Hi Don! Thank you so much! My family and I are very grateful for all the help you and Anabella gave us when we arrived in Costa Rica. Warm regards to you and your family.
DeleteI am saddened to learn of Hernan's passing, which I just learned of after googling his name. I met Hernan in 1983 or 1984 when he came to study at the University of Michigan, where I was studying Civil Engineering. He and I were connected through a U of M "speaking partner" program that arranged for students from another country to meet and help each other to learn their language. He helped me to improve my Spanish, I helped him with his English. I remember him as a humble, kind, and bright man. I think we met weekly for an hour during the day, for over a year, conversing half the time in each other's language.
ReplyDeleteOne of my favorite memories of Hernan happened during one of those meetings. Hernan teased me doing a very good John Wayne impression in English. I still laugh remembering how surprising it was to hear that actor's drawl coming from Hernan. I met his wife a couple of times, though I forget her name.
I googled Hernan because I want to visit Chile soon, and I wondered what had become of him. I am not at all surprised at the wonderful environmental work he devoted his life to. But I am so sad that it is no longer possible to see Hernan again. I wish to express my deepest condolences to Hernan's family for the loss that I am sure is still felt this many years later.
Hi Jim! Thank you so much for sharing your memories of Hernán and for your condolences. Indeed, his loss is still felt by all of us. I remember him telling us about his experience practicing English with you. I can imagine his John Wayne impression! My family and I have fond memories of our time in Ann Arbor. I'm sorry you will not be able to meet with my dad again. I will email you privately with some tips for your trip to Chile. Take care and stay in touch!
ReplyDelete